An Oral Historical past of the First Winter Ascent of K2

Nims: BC was busy, however I all the time say hi there to different individuals. I stored the morale of our group to ourselves as a result of there have been so many climbers. After the primary rotation, morale was actually low and another climbing events had been saying ‘Oh my God, no one goes to summit K2 this winter’. Some had been saying ‘I am going to surrender this job, I am going to surrender my wage.’ Mainly they had been saying that it was inconceivable, however for me I had been adamant in maintaining the morale of the group and all people finally had an identical perspective. More often than not we stored to ourselves and we had been fairly busy attempting to make progress when it comes to setting fastened traces.

Mingma G: We took two days’ relaxation after which we went again up on the 26th to C1 and on the 27th we climbed to C2 and we arrange our camp at 6,800 metres. We began fixing traces in the direction of C3 on the 29th. We fastened to nearly 7,000m. Nimsdai and his group had been at decrease C2 on 29th. On the 30th we requested their assist for the fixing marketing campaign. They got here from decrease C2 to C3. We had been fixing traces within the morning and in the midst of the day we met Nimsdai and considered one of his Sherpas, Mingma Tenzing, and on that day 5 of us nearly reached C3.

Nims: We had by no means labored collectively earlier than, however I knew Mingma G was an ideal climber. I knew that he had completed many issues earlier than and to be sincere, between us we had been like little rivals. However then we met at C3 once they had been fixing traces and this relationship was made at excessive excessive altitude. We received again down, we had a chat and realised that our imaginative and prescient, our purpose and our goals had been the identical. He needed to do one thing for the climbing group right here in Nepal and for future generations. Extra importantly, there was no selfishness or agenda. That is why we determined to collaborate and work collectively. We managed to repair traces slightly below C3 after which we went again down. We had put our tents up at C2, we had all our summit tools up there. The plan was to return all the way down to BC, meet the remainder of my group and are available up for the summit push the subsequent morning. Sadly, this didn’t occur as once I received to BC, I discovered my group weren’t prepared.

Mingma G: We did not wish to go all the way in which as much as C3 as a result of there was a hazard of avalanche. It is essentially the most dangerous place on K2. It will probably wash away all of the camps, however this time it was winter, so many of the snow had blown away and it was extra secure. 200 metres beneath C3 we completed our fixing and we returned to C2. On the 31st, all of us returned to BC. We met the remainder of Nims’ group at BC and had an enormous get together as a result of it was New Yr’s Eve. That created an excellent bond between my group and Nims’ group. We partied till nearly two o’clock within the morning! There was this particular second which was created between each groups. Then we began planning collectively, we each joined arms to work additional collectively as a result of we needed to climb to the summit of K2 this time. Once we joined arms, it was simpler for us. At first, we had been truly competing towards one another. Once we joined arms there was no competitors between Nepalese brothers, so it made the group stronger.

Mingma David: Once we met Mingma G and his group that made 9 individuals after which [ed. with Sona Sherpa, Seven Summits Treks] we had been ten individuals, which was greater than sufficient manpower. We had been now a good stronger group.

Nims: I needed to take my group again up there for the summit, however then once I received to BC individuals weren’t prepared and there have been just a few points. So I made the decision to not go for the summit on 2 January, the place we missed the climate window. Then a fairly horrendous storm arrived and I used to be upset. My paragliding tools at C2 was gone in addition to my summit tools and all my insulated batteries for heating and so forth. I stored quite a lot of tools excessive on the primary rotation as a result of then your backpack turns into a bit lighter on the summit push, since then you definitely even have extra ropes to hold. However I’ve a Particular Forces background! All the pieces has a backup plan for a backup plan, however actually it was simply the paragliding equipment that disappeared and in any other case we had been totally re-equipped anyway.

Mingma G: We received extra confidence. We began the climb on the 13th and Group Nimsdai began on the 12th, as a result of that they had extra hundreds to hold after C2 was blown away. Our plan was to fulfill at C3 on the 14th. There have been just a few overseas mates, they had been following our plan too. We received a climate report on the 14th which was very correct, however there was some downside with the overseas group’s climate report, predicting winds at 7,000m or so at 60 km/h, however our report was predicting superb climate on the 14th. So the remainder of the climbers stayed at C2, however my group and Group Nimsdai continued and we reached C3 on the 14th. On the 15th it was a fortunate day for us, however an unfortunate day for our overseas mates. On the 15th, once we had been fixing from C3 to C4, we did not have wind in any respect. There was wind however within the night solely, above 7,300 metres. There have been excessive winds beneath 7,300 metres. So our overseas mates who had been attempting to summit with us could not meet us at C3. On the 16th, our plan was to go to the summit. We felt fortunate and we felt that now K2 was just for Nepal. Solely the Nepalese may make it right now.

Nims: Personally, I needed to calculate each danger to the dying, as a result of I used to be attempting to climb with out oxygen. I used to be additionally a pacesetter and which means I can’t lead my 5 sturdy males from behind, so I knew that I needed to sustain with them. Our summit plan was to achieve the summit and sing our nationwide anthem collectively, so for me that was one thing to think about as a result of with out oxygen you are gonna be colder and also you’re gonna be slower, and I did not need them to attend for hours on the summit for me. Usually individuals who go with out oxygen are 4 or 5 hours behind. The ultimate situation was that I wasn’t totally acclimatised. I had solely slept as much as C2 and had solely been on the mountain for 2 weeks. Once you climb with out oxygen you must sleep at C4. I additionally had frost nip on three fingers. However anyway, I made the decision! I completely believed in my potential and I had climbed fourteen 8,000 metre peaks final 12 months in simply six months and 6 days. I had loads of expertise beneath my belt and all of these climbs had been profitable.

Mingma G: Mingma David, Mingma Tenzing, Sona Sherpa and I, we’re all collectively on the 15th fixing from C3 to C4. We tried to comply with the route which we used within the summertime in June/July. Once we had been near C4, we discovered an enormous crevasse that was inconceivable to cross. We needed to descend nearly all the way in which to C3 to seek out an alternate far more on the Česen ridge, which took us nearly the entire day.

Mingma David: The times of the summit push had been crucial and tough days in our journey. It was very tough to seek out C4 this time. I had climbed on the mountain 4 instances earlier than, additionally in a fixing group. I had summited K2 twice earlier than. In 2014 and 2018 I took completely different routes from C3 to C4 as a result of there have been some crevasses. This 12 months there have been additionally huge crevasses and it was very tough to seek out the route. Lastly, we made it by way of at 5 p.m. and in only a few hours we needed to go away for the summit, so we descended to C3 to relaxation.

Mingma G: This was very tiring; I nearly misplaced all my vitality for attending to the summit. Beforehand my plan was to climb K2 with out oxygen, however once we had been fixing C4 I misplaced all my vitality, so on the 16th I made a decision to make use of oxygen to go for the summit.

Nims: We made the summit push from C3, so which means it is a very, very lengthy push and it was winter. We left C3 round 2 a.m. The climate was so, so chilly. Truthfully, so chilly and subsequent stage within the thoughts – my toes had been freezing, my arms had been freezing and I used to be stamping my toes on the blue ice simply to heat them up. That occurred to all my group members. All people was like, ‘Wow, that is so chilly!’ in -65°C, with windchill.

Mingma David: Nims and Dawa Temba began twenty minutes earlier than as Nimsdai was climbing with out oxygen. Each step was difficult, as a result of it was very chilly with excessive winds. That was the very tough half. Each step. We additionally needed to carry rope and make tough preparations, like fixing rope and different technical issues. Each step was very tough. My fundamental job was being the cameraman. I wanted to take video to comply with our story. That was one of the tough jobs due to the temperature and it was very tough to make use of the digicam.

Mingma G: After I reached C4 round Four a.m., my toes had been very chilly. At that time I nearly stop my climb as a result of I felt so chilly. I used to be very fearful that I’d lose my toes. I nearly stop, however it was fortunate that once I tried to contact my mates on the radio, their radios had been off. It was not a good suggestion, with out telling the others, to show again then, anyway, so I continued additional and after two hours there was sunshine, which was offering life to me. I continued behind the group. I used to be not main the group on today, I used to be lagging behind as a result of I nearly misplaced all my vitality the day before today. I simply continued with the group and it was simply sort of encouraging, when everybody was climbing. If someone turned again then, everybody would lose hope. When everybody continues, we encourage one another.