The Perfect Trip to Ireland Is Two-Part

TravelThe Perfect Trip to Ireland Is Two-PartIn both town and country, architectural gems shine bright

By Madeleine Luckel

December 21, 2021

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The coast of County Clare, seen at sunset.Photo: Patryk Kosmider / Getty Images

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A storied castle, a historic farmhouse, and a stunning university campus—these are the things that any design buff would plan a dream trip around. And yet, on a visit to Ireland, they can be just the half of it. Therefore, we’re sharing a two-part guide to the island nation, whether you find yourself planning a trip there for sooner or later. 

Explore Dublin

What to Do:

As a city, Dublin is as charming as it is manageable—highly walkable and doable in two full days. To start things off, head over to the Guinness Storehouse for a quintessential Irish beer experience. No doubt most visitors will give their top marks to the Instagrammable pint-pouring exercise (the full lesson includes the chance to imprint a picture of your face on the beer’s foam, à la extra latte art). But for architecture aficionados, the time is also likely to be well extra spent.

Entering Dublin, it’s nearly impossible to miss just how large the original Guinness factory looms, even if it’s far from the city’s outskirts. What is more, not only is the multi-floor tour chock full of design moments—a lighting installation from one of Madonna’s world tours is one of the first things that greets visitors—but its conclusion is also a breathtaking experience. Once visitors reach the top-floor bar, they are greeted by the chance to grab a Guinness while taking a 360-degree look at Dublin’s views. Thanks to the fact that the city is notably flat, it’s easy to gain a great sense of the architectural landscape from up above. 

Colorful doors in Georgian Dublin.

Photo: Stefan Auth / Getty Images

Next up, go for a walking tour of Georgian Dublin. Unlike London, which had many of its Georgian-era buildings destroyed during the Blitz, the Irish capital’s equivalent examples remain in excellent shape. For those looking for key points on which to anchor said tour, consider four charming parks: Merrion Square, St. Stephen’s Green, Fitzwilliam Square, and Iveagh Gardens. Each area of greenery is wonderfully composed.

On day two, you can explore the shops and restaurants of Grafton Street before heading over to the storied Trinity College. First founded in 1592, it features many more excellent examples of Georgian architecture. Nonetheless, no visit to Trinity can be considered complete without a stop into its Long Room Library and a look at the famed Book of Kells. The illuminated manuscript is one of the most important surviving examples of Medieval art. 

For those with still more time and spring in their step, consider a visit to the National Library of Ireland, National Gallery of Ireland, or Áras an Uachtaráin over in Phoenix Park. The Áras an Uachtaráin—or Irish White House—was in fact used as a model for the U.S. equivalent, and looks eerily similar. 

Trinity College.

Photo: Marc Lechanteur / Getty Images

Where to Stay: 

With its central location and ample dining options, The Westbury is difficult to beat. Though the five-star hotel may have long lured design buffs thanks to its assortment of distinguished paintings, its current room remodel is likely to leave them coming back for more. The overall Art Deco aesthetic of that effort is echoed in The Sidecar, the hotel’s prohibition era-style watering hole. The bar’s expert bartender has a way with gin cocktails, including a classic gin and tonic. But the most charming detail of the experience is no doubt the mini glasses of champagne that greet guests while they wait. (While The Westbury has an excellent store that sells its lovely blue chinaware, those glasses are not available for purchase.) 

As for dining, Balfes Bare & Brasserie serves elevated bistro-style fare, while Wilde focuses on elevated cuisine. The verdant greenhouse style interior of Wilde is rivaled only by the experience of ordering high tea in The Gallery, a sweeping open room which is filled with updated interpretations of classic pieces of furniture. 

Head Out to the Countryside

What to Do: 

On the other side of the island nation—just a two-and-half-hour drive from Dublin—rests County Clare. The area is suffused with rolling green fields and rugged Atlantic coast views. Unsurprisingly, it’s where some of the best links golf courses are located. 

But for those less interested in playing 18 holes, there’s still plenty to do over a couple days that makes great use of the surrounding landscape. First and foremost is arguably a visit to The Burren Perfumery. Nestled down a narrow road and surrounded by countless sheep- and cow-filled acres, the compound is a veritable oasis. Picturesque stone cottages make up the necessary production facilities (think: A blending room) as well as an inviting store and darling cafe. An herb garden—and assorted other green spaces—hit home the fact that cofounder Sadie Chowen would make for an excellent Nancy Meyers protagonist. 

A visit to the area is also not complete without a jaunt to the sea, and perhaps, time spent foraging for seaweed. (During the Great Famine of the mid-1800s, such practices were adopted by locals as a means for survival.) That dark chapter in Irish history also wiped out the country’s whisky blending industry, which focused on creating a variety of blends. Today, Louise McGuane is one of a small retinue aiming to bring the craft back. Working on her family’s ancestral farmland, a visit to the J.J. Correy property is as informative about architecture as it is about any whisky. A stone farmhouse used for hundreds of years is still in existence, while McGuane’s own stunning modernist house makes for an equally perfect setting for any tasting. 

A historic engraving of Dromoland Castle.

Photo: Getty Images

Where to Stay: 

Put in two words: Dromoland Castle. The five-star hotel is in fact located in a castle, and one with ample history to boot. (As the ancestral home of the O’Briens, it is considered to be one of the best Baronel castles in all of the Emerald Isle—a fact that guests can learn on a walking history tour.) From its tower-set rooms to its cozy common areas, nothing about the interiors of the residence are likely to disappoint. 

That said, Dromoland Castle also offers a host of on-site outdoor activities. Visitors are free to explore its acres of land on foot or via golf cart. The tempietto-style tomb of one beloved horse, a stunning walled garden, and a hidden grotto are just three sites waiting to be stumbled upon. There are also a handful of ponds—located both on and off the estate’s golf course. Other sporting adventures—such as archery and falconry lessons—are not to be missed. A litany of falcons, hawks, and owls all live on the grounds, and are tended to by an excellent caretaker.

As for dining, between the Irish cheeses served at breakfast, tarot-themed cocktails available in a special in-house corner bar, and daily afternoon option of high tea, it’s difficult to be hungry for long. And yet, the in-house Earl of Thomond restaurant can’t be missed for those in search of fine dining.